Any Standard 50’s owners able to answer a question??

Discussion in 'Epiphone Guitars' started by Zero, Jul 10, 2020.

  1. Zero

    Zero New Member

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    Hello all!

    I’m on the market for a Standard 50’s Inspired by Gibson. The stock photo on Epiphones website looks like the pickups are not wired into the pots, but have a plug on the pickups.

    Is anybody able to confirm whether they are plugged or wired?

    i have a set of early Burstbuckers I want to put in eventually...
     
  2. Zero

    Zero New Member

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  3. Supersonic

    Supersonic Well-Known Member

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    I haven't seen the insides of one personally, but I'm pretty sure there are a few members here that have the new 50's Standard Goldtop. Hopefully someone will be along to help out.
     
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  4. Zero

    Zero New Member

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    Or worse case scenario I can remove the whole harness and go to a 50’s style with some bumblebee caps too... :naughty:
     
  5. JY1978

    JY1978 New Member

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    Hi,

    I have the Goldtop, but haven’t opened the back. Nevertheless, I think this video should give you the answer (around the 11th minute):



    It is a great guitar, can recommend it!
     
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  6. Zero

    Zero New Member

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    Thank you so much!!! This was exactly what I was looking for!
     
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  7. Zero

    Zero New Member

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    @JY1978 How do the pickups sound? And do you like the neck??
     
  8. Raiyn

    Raiyn Well-Known Member

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    Don't waste your money. Most if not all of the "Bumblebees" on the market are fakes (or have drifted horribly). They're all overpriced and preying on the "collector". Personally, I feel that PIO is a racket too. Let me just buy some 30+ year old Soviet radio spares. Oh boy! :facepalm: There hasn't been a single scientific comparison where people have been able to tell the difference.

    Far more important (to me, and for the sake of consistency) is the tolerance to the stated capacitance value. I don't buy caps with a ± greater than 5%. This typically results in film caps from a recognized brand. I've used Mullard, Mallory, Nissei, Panasonic, and Vishay with excellent results and haven't once had a client gripe about "teh tonez".
     
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  9. Stevo58

    Stevo58 Member

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    Let me emphasize what Raiyn wrote.
    As background, I build amps and use a lot of caps.

    Different types of caps may - but may not - have different tonal qualities, but only as you approach the limits of the ratings, that is, the voltage rating. This could happen in an amp where you have 400V on a cap, but not in a guitar, not even with the smallest rating.

    Caps have a tolerance, which often is 20%. So if you buy a .022uF cap, it’s real value could be as low as .018uF or as high as .026uF. Both caps are still in spec. You will hear the difference between these two caps but it will have nothing to do with how they are made. When you compare caps, you have to measure them first to make sure they are both really the same value. The number printed on them is just a nominal value.

    When I need a cap for a guitar, I just grab whatever I have with the right value and frankly I don’t give a rat’s ass what kind of cap it is. Because I use a lot of Xicons it’s often a Xicon. I also have used Mallories quite a bit, MKT, Sozo, Jupiter, and others. It doesn’t matter. Just get the value right.

    You can do this by tack-soldering a couple of leads to your vol/tone - where you would solder in the cap - hang the wires outside the guitar, tack-solder an alligator clip to the ends, and clip in different caps. Pick the one that has the roll-off you want.

    Tone controls work by bleeding signal to ground. The combination of the pot and cap determines what part of your signal is tossed out. Whatever signal goes through that cap is sent to ground - it never makes it to your amp.

    I would never waste my money on old-stock PIO or overpriced ‘new vintage’ caps. I tried so many different cap types (see above) in amps and found I was very happy with boring, inexpensive Xicons. Resistors are another thing though. There’s a real difference between types there. Carbon comp add hiss. I stick to mil-spec Dale RN65 MF there. Robust, low tolerance, and quiet. No ‘mojo,’though.


    jmho

    steven
     
  10. Corsair Ace

    Corsair Ace New Member

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    I wouldn't waste your money changing out the harness. It already comes with 50’s style wiring and CTS pots. My guess would be Orangedrop tone capacitors. Their website shows quick connect harness on the pickups. The new Probuckers are quite good for the small amount of time I tried them, but I personally wouldn't change them out unless you're gigging or recording. I've been considering the new 50s Standard Les Paul, and I think it's already perfect.
     
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  11. Corsair Ace

    Corsair Ace New Member

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    The new Probuckers sound great. Definitely don't need to be replaced. The neck is a 50s rounded profile. Very round, fat, and awesome.
     
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  12. JY1978

    JY1978 New Member

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  13. Raiyn

    Raiyn Well-Known Member

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    ∆ This, all day. ∆

    This also illustrates why I go out of my way to get the tighter tolerance caps. With a ±5% cap were talking between 0.0209uF to 0.0231uF for the same 0.022uF stated value. It's largely a matter of preference for me. YMMV

    One thing that hasn't been mentioned: voltage ratings.
    In a guitar, the voltage rating means nothing. In a guitar circuit we're talking millivolts, (highest I've read about is maybe 1.5V but that guy sold his soul at the crossroads) you're NEVER going to produce anything close to worrying voltage in say a 50V rated cap.

    The main reason to consider the voltage rating of a capacitor in an electric guitar comes down to physical size. Higher voltage caps are physically bigger than lower voltage caps of the same construction which can both fix or cause (minor) problems depending on how you want to wire things.

    This is an excellent point that I neglected to address and is completely correct. You don't hear what goes through the cap!
    :cheers:
     
  14. Norton

    Norton Active Member

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    Every time I see a "tone Cap" thread I post links to Ann Arbor Guitars vids comparing caps, pots and all the guitar related wiring schemes.

    http://annarborguitars.com/styled-4/index.html

    scroll down. it's totally worth your time. knowledge is power.
     
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  15. Zero

    Zero New Member

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    It was just a thought since I have the parts from when I was working on guitars. The reason for pulling the whole harness would be to remove the pickups and keep the factory parts intact if I decided to put it back. I wouldn’t want to chop the parts.
     
  16. Norton

    Norton Active Member

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    either way... the Ann Arbor shop vids are stellar!
     
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  17. Zero

    Zero New Member

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    I appreciate the info! I am always open to information that I can use :)
     
  18. JY1978

    JY1978 New Member

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    Have you already decided to buy one, and if so, which finish?
     
  19. Zero

    Zero New Member

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    I had a IBG studio that needed a neck re-repair that I was going to use to see how I liked the new neck. Based on that would have dictated if I wanted a slimmer taper or the 50’s neck. That studio didn’t work out so well so I’m trying to work a deal on a Classic Worn.
     
  20. Cozmik Cowboy

    Cozmik Cowboy Well-Known Member

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    This - one thousand times this; value matters, type matters not. Be it mylar, ceramic, PIO, whatever; a .047µF is a .047µF cap. It will (if it's within spec) provide .047µF capacitance. What it will not do is sound different from any other .047µF cap.

    That is what both science and countless online "blind tests" tell us. Any other version of the story is a steaming, reeking, fly-ridden heap of beef by-product.

    And, for those who will not be convinced, at least don't buy the ones Gibson is charging a metric shitload for these days; I have seen several vids of them being cut open to see how much oil was used. Guess what? No oil was used; they're small mylar caps with a sheath of clay or some such taking them out to "bumblebee" dimensions & painted accordingly.

    And let me head your refutations off at the pass:

    If you're thinking "But...but...but they must be better, or why would would they charge more??", well --- you're their target market, if you catch my drift.

    If you're thinking "But...but...but I spent $150 a throw on a pair of genuine '50s bumblebees; I know they're real because I watched the guy take them out of his 'burst to sell them to me, and I know they're within spec because I slapped a meter on them before I paid up - and my Cort sounds just like a '59 Les Paul now!", well --- if I spent that much on snake oil (or to be precise, paper in snake oil.....), I could probably convince my ears to hear what I was expecting, too.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2020
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